After a quick shower, pack, and charge at Goan Corner, I set off on foot across the island as the colors of dusk set in. Ran into a friend who gave me a motorbike ride part of the way! I got to the pick-up spot early so I split some snacks with the rickshaw driver and got some quick calls in to the parents.

We drove to Hospet (I say "we" because this driver also let me operate the rickshaw for a beat haha) and boarded the sleeper bus. I opted to save a couple bucks by sleeping in a reclining chair as opposed to the beds, but surprisingly I still got some solid rest. We transferred at about 4am to a minibus and got into Gokarna town about 45 min later. The minibus driver was offering to take folks the extra 6km to Om Beach for 100 rupees each, which was a good deal compared to the 200-250 the tuktuks would charge. Unfortunately no one else wanted in on this deal so the driver wasn't game to take only me, and after some failed pleading, I was out on the dark streets.

But some good fortune struck, about 10 steps later I asked a young Indian guy on a motorbike if he could give me a ride to Om Beach and he instantly agreed. As we rode there and talked, I learned he was from Hampi and was related to a local climber I had met just days before! Such a sweet coincidence, and immediately affirmed this spontaneous transportation choice. My new friend explained he was taking a couple weeks to travel around Karnataka by bike before heading home to Hampi. We arrived at Om Beach and I kept trying to thank him for the ride, and he kept thanking me for keeping him company. We walked down the steps to the beach and hopped around on some rocks before settling for some snacks and the sunrise.

After checking out some tide pools, I figured it was light enough to head down the beach and look for a chai or a guesthouse. Again the chai came first, and I sat taking in the peace and quiet and waves. And cows.

Hi.

After checking out a few different places, I settled on a simple spot at the end of the beach called Rasta Cafe where I negotiated a simple room for Rs.250. I promptly took a nice long nap to make up for any sleep I'd lost overnight.

By noon I was sunscreened up setting out on my first adventure. I hiked up and over the south end of the beach along a cool little jungle trail with some spectacular ocean vistas.

I came down first to Half Moon Beach which to my surprise was clean and void of any other people! I took a refreshing first dip in the Indian Ocean and let the warm salt water hold me. 

I was tempted to stay here for lunch, but I met a couple returning to Om Beach from Paradise Beach and they gave me some pointers, so I followed their instructions to what I discovered to actually be Paradise!

A beach accessible only by hiking or boat attracts rustic backpackers from all over the world to set up camp in tents and hammocks among the shady palm trees. In the past couple years, some locals have begun coming here during the day to make food and sell fruit to the travelers and daytrippers. I enjoyed a yummy thali lunch plate provided by three sweet sisters from Gokarna, and their delicious chai, for less than I would have paid for a lunch anywhere else in the area. Plus having interesting conversations and learning from interesting travelers was a lovely bonus. 

Exploring around Paradise I found my friend and roommate from vipassana, Carmen, nestled into a nice camp just above the beach! Another sweet surprise and we-couldn't-have-planned-this-better coincidence! 

Not a bad place to live off the beaten path... Carmen told me about a natural spring within short walking distance for refilling bottles, making this beach even more livable for extended periods of time. The last couple places I've stayed haven't had filtered water available for the guest to refill bottles, and it's actually been paining me to my core to have to buy bottled water. Partially because I feel like such a fool for losing my camelbak bottle for purifying water (mentioned in a previous post), and mainly because there's too much damn plastic polluting our poor planet and it's completely unnecessary. So I have been seeking out any way possible to refill my bottles instead of buying water.

Afterwards Carmen and some of her friends were going for a swim and I joined in. The sea was getting more rough than earlier, and in an attempt to body surf into the shore, the ocean decided she would body surf me IN to the shore... Dragging me along the sand and tumbling me around in the break :(

OUCH. That event kind of ended my dreams of relaxing ocean swims... I rinsed it with clean water and joked with Carmen about impermanence (the theme of our vipassana course) and felt really glad to have a friend at that moment. She gave me some iodine for the wounds and her friend have me a hit of a joint and then I laughed my way back to Om Beach. I washed up and a nice woman who I'd met earlier at my guesthouse helped play nurse on my stillverymuchso open wound. She poured some kind of disinfecting liquid on a pad and cleaned it out and holy hell nothing has ever felt more painful! I would have screamed if I wasn't already biting into a tshirt with all my might. But slowly the thing has been healing with no signs of infection so I have to believe it was worth it.

The next day I hiked back over to Paradise for another delicious thali, chai, and chillin. 

Common Paradise Beach scene! Carmen and her girlfriend met traveling a couple years ago and have spent their time together backpacking around the world, funding themselves by selling macrame jewelry. And they are so sweet and seem so simply happy... it's inspiring :) 

I made it back before sunset and found a seat among the rocks to meditate and wish the sun goodnight.

The next morning was the day that three of my friends from our Goan Corner adventures were arriving! Shortly after 6am I started walking down the beach to try to find them, and at the exact same time they were heading up the beach having just arrived after their overnight travels. As soon as we recognized each other we began running towards each other and embraced and spun around and laughed and hugged some more! Like a magic movie moment! 😂

The day before I had scoped out a better guesthouse and they were even kind enough to check in us weary travelers at 6:30am. Rooms were only 400, so Evie and I split one and Ralph and Matt split another to save some rupes. They went for a morning swim while I did yoga then we all had breakfast at the guesthouse beachfront restaurant. It was very conducive to relaxing, reading, chatting, napping, but eventually we moved out to the beach. To do more of the same. But with a beach around us.

I haggled a fruit seller for a pineapple to share and finished a book and taught the crew how to play my favorite card game. I realized how I rarely allow myself to "do nothing" during the day. If it wasn't for my friends having a rest day, I probably would have pushed myself to do more activity for the day. Between getting that scrape and traveling around more, part of me was asking for a laidback, low-activity day. And it was sooo good for the soul!

After more yoga and a shower, I climbed around on some rocks to find a spot to meditate for the sunset. The police saw me out on this far left steep rock and beckoned me back down so I had to settle for this average view.. ;)

That night we all shared and devoured a big family-style meal of Indian food and quite a few Kingfishers... My last night with them together being the excuse, and it was a blast. I was feelin silly. After the restaurant closed, I still had a lot of energy. I explained to the crew how I'd skinny dipped in every country is been in expect India, and you can guess where that led! We all went skinny dipping out in the ocean and became instantly mesmerized by the bioluminescent plankton illuminating our every motion! With the lights below and the stars above and the friends all around, I was completely blissed out! It was a absolutely magical way to end my time in Gokarna. 

The next morning we all had a final meal together before I had to head out for Goa.

Evie, Ralph, Matt... If you're reading this, I miss you loads and thanks for showing me a brill time!

I shared a tuktuk to the train station with another couple from the guesthouse. Even though I didn't get to say bye to her, I saw Carmen on the road a ways out of town, walking alongside a cow and talking to it casually. I like to hold this image as the last one I'll have of her :)

I booked the train for a cheeeap Rs. 25 and waited for the hour-delayed train on the platform.

It finally pulled up and I loaded up with my eyes and heart set on Goa! The journey continues!

Hampi continued to deliver as I found my way into the climbing scene via Goan Corner. I arrived midday and checked into my spot, one of about twenty beds on the roof terrace for only Rs.200 ($3) a night.

Backpacker style... Making my own bedside porridge! 

My first day here was restful and not too social as I eased from cave life into my more extroverted self. I met up with a friend from my vipassana course, kind Tilla from Hungary, who was staying on the main/temple side of the river. We ordered a delicious dinner which the chef agreed to show us how to make, making it that much more delicious.

We walked amidst boulders and temples and monkeys and tourists to a sunset overlook. I could barely make out the rock outcrop where the caves were under last light of the disappearing sun. 

I met up with her again the following morning for a sunrise hike. After a short, steep climb we found ourselves overlooking the entire valley from all directions. We nestled into our own meditation/yoga spaces and I flowed with the rising sun. After a bit we shared some fruit and explored the temple at the top of the hill.

The views in Hampi are unbeatable, I was in constant awe no matter which direction I looked. Hampi gives off this ancient energy... From a geology standpoint, it's one of the oldest exposed surfaces on the earth and the unique balancing boulders are a result of over a billion years of weathering and erosion. It's no wonder that historic civilizations were drawn to this area to create beautifully carved temples for deities over the centuries. I often found myself so humbled by this landscape and felt as if I had woken up thousands of years in the past, to a simpler time.

Goan Corner is named after a classic bouldering problem (made famous by pro-climber Chris Sharma in a movie) and sits among other awesome boulders just above the rice fields and guest houses on a rock plateau. The whole area is brimming with high quality bouldering problems for all skill levels and is considered the largest bouldering area in the WORLD. I don't doubt it, there are boulders as far as the eye can see, with some of the best being no more than a ten minute walk from the hostel. For climbers of the world, this place is the mecca.

After going up to the climbing plateau one evening, I had met nearly everyone I'd be climbing with that whole week. It became a routine to meet at 6am to get on rock before the sun was up, watch the sunrise with the warm-up routes, eventually having to climb in the shade or head back for breakfast. Midday would be too hot so evening climbing would start again around 5 and continued through the sunset, and even into the dark with headlamps occasionally! That meant there was plenty of time in the middle of the day for perusing the guidebook, slacklining, napping in hammocks, reading, exploring temples, swimming, and more! But mainly relaxing ;)

I even led an informal yoga class for about 6 folks one morning and got a bunch of positive feedback! I want to get back into the space where I'm confidently teaching, so maybe another yoga teacher training is on the horizon for me. Another day I spent an hour playing 4-on-4 volleyball games with all guys and tried to hold my own, and our team only lost by a couple points! Plenty of fun ways to pass the days :)

Late start morning, ft. Pug

I was amazed at skill of some of the climbers I met... Many of who were traveling purely for climbing and had a deep passion for the sport. I hadn't climbed in probably four months so I was a bit rusty, but I found others around my skill level and we worked together on a lot of the same projects. 

Nothing beats being on these stunning granite outcrops for both sunrise and sunset everyday, surrounded by local and international climbers, kids selling chai out of thermoses, temple music and bird calls echoing in the rocks, and the adrenaline rush of topping out on countless beautiful boulders!

Found myself in my element in these elements! 

My final day in Hampi was one for the books. Had some proper sends in the morning, including a fun highball climb that I flashed, down-climbed, and supported three other friends to overcome their fears and do the same! (Ask me for translation from climbing lingo ;) )

We had some well-earned breakfast and about 9 of us headed into town to rent motorbikes. I drove one with my friend Evie on the back and surprised myself with my confidence with operating it over the bumpy roads.. it was such a blast. We arrived at the base of Anjaneya Hill and climbed the 575 steps to the "Monkey Temple" at the top, dedicated to the monkey warrior god Hanuman, who according to Hindu mythology was born on top of this hill. 

And it is actually covered in monkeys!

But in the middle of the day, the heat was nearly unbearable and the rock surface was burning our bare feet so we didn't stay long. As we walked along the top exclaiming "oh, ah, ee!" Evie joked that's how the monkeys got the sounds they make haha! We quickly cruised down, seeking some relief from the heat. We had gotten word of a (possibly corocodile-infested) lake that was nice for swimming so we headed there. We crossed over a dam (okay so maybe it's a dammed river, not a proper lake) and found a sandy beach. And it was lovely! No crocodiles, only a few people (at first), little trash/debris, and niiiice cool water!

After a couple hours of floating, playing, and dancing, we headed back into town for dinner. To top off a delicious meal, my mate Ralph found a puppy and the momma! It doesn't get better than this... I had the most touching goodbye yet, filled with hugs and kisses and smiles and a big full heart.

Hampi was a dream come true for so many reasons. I was reminded how energized I get by being around friends, even ones I've only known for a short time, and to have big belly laughs on the daily! I felt open and joyous and free and filled with love. And that's made all the introspection and loneliness and isolation worth it, because I now get to celebrate in the extoversion and friendships and free-flowing fun!

Bring on the next dance :)

 

Leaving Tiru ignited a peaceful excitement, a readiness for the next phase. I caught a tuktuk to the bus stand, walked about asking "Bangalore? Bangalore?" and followed where people pointed me. Hopped on a rickety local bus and got a window seat to the back. 

Rode along for about 5 hours, found myself at a bus stand in Bangalore where I caught another local bus to the main bus station. Hopped off there and walked to the overnight bus company I had booked to Hospet (town near Hampi). Dropped off my pack and wandered about the streets since I had a few hours to kill and I wanted to get some energy out so that I'd actually sleep on the bus. I found a little restaurant and forced my way through a damn spicy veg curry. Refreshed myself with a sweet lassi and went back to the bus waiting area to read. Oddly enough I saw not one other white traveler in all of Bangalore. All Indians, and mainly Indian men too. I felt very foreign and the farthest from any sense "home" than I had in a while. 

I got little rest for the first few hours on the sleeper bus, but eventually dozed off for a solid chunk of the night before being awoken to someone tapping my pillow and saying "Hampi Hampi, get off here for Hampi!" I gathered my stuff and slid off the bus where I found myself in a new city (Hospet) with my backpack out on the road. I scooped it up and headed for a chai stall. I accepted an offer from a tuktuk driver going to Hampi (he also helped me find a toilet and warded off a local kid trying to charge me to use this gross hole in the ground). He introduced himself as Elephant and asked if I minded if he smoked. Any time I get this question I so badly want to say "yeah I do mind" but end up politely acquiescing. The breeze blew most of the smoke out of the tuktuk anyways and all was alright as the sun made its appearance through the palm trees and boulder plains.

 He asked me if I'd ever driven one before and I laughed and said no, so he had me hop up front and taught me how to drive it! Gears and brake on the left hand and gas on the right. I joked for him to get in the back but he wasn't that comfortable with me yet haha. That was a new one! 

Once in Hampi, I got a delicious fruit bowl with curd and homemade muesli. More chai. Navigated my way down to the river and had to hop the boulders and partially wade across, with the assistance of random locals giving me a hand up and down the rocks! I easily met Ulli who would be my host for the next week at the beautiful Ecodaya wilderness sanctuary that he and his brother have spent over 15 years establishing. We chatted and grabbed some groceries and I enjoyed a fresh coconut. After a short bike ride we were on foot, hiking through rice fields and forest and rivers, in to the island retreat.

I met the only other visitor, Ulli's friend from Auroville (UK initially) named Dave. These two became the extent of my social interactions for the week and they made great company. The set-up here is beautifully simple: meals at 10am, 1pm, and 5pm, and the rest of the time is used however the visitor would like. People even come stay for months on end in silent meditation. After 10 days in silence I opted for the "soft retreat" where I could balance my solitude with some socializing. 

My first step was choosing a cave. Over the years 20+ caves have been set up for guests to sleep in, all tucked away in the impressive natural boulder formations. Ulli showed me probably 10 that are in good shape (it's a lot of work for one person to maintain all the caves at once). I chose one named "Wind" on the side of a rock outcrop facing away from the noise of local villages and roads. The air element has been a recurring theme in my time here, and with the temperature steadily climbing, Wind sounded pretty good to me. 

I spent the afternoon setting up my sleeping mat, bedding, mosquito net, and locked away my valuables with Ulli.

After dinner, I enjoyed watching a solo serene sunset outside my cave, embracing the breeze on my bare body... Free. Connected. Peaceful. Once tucked into the cave, I journaled under the light of a candle and tried to pretend the noises of the night weren't scaring me! I drifted to sleep for a few hours before I awoke to, yep, wind! I was grateful for a cool breeze as a break from the hot air. But the wind brought with it some drizzle, then rain, then downpour, then fast approaching lightning and thunder! I started putting on layers and curled up into a ball to avoid the rain which was starting to enter from various angles and places around me. The storm quickly intensified while I made some attempts at waterproofing with a poncho, but everything was starting to really get soaked. 

Just then I heard Ulli's voice and saw a light as he climbed over to me. He had me gather everything I could and move down into a building with spare bedding. We carefully and swiftly descended from the rocks in the downpour with bright lightning and deafening thunder all around us. I got into the shelter, thanked Ulli, and made my nest for the night. The storm gave me a rush that kept me from sleep for a while, so instead I watched it from the door and soaked it all in. Water, wind, and the powerful explosions of lightning left me charged and humbled. 

The following day required a lot of moving and washing and arranging and resettling. After exploring more options with Dave, I chose a closer (and drier) cave to settle into: Om cave.

I wasn't as connected to this cave as I was to Wind initially so it took me a day or two to feel I'd really gotten my set-up down. I had to craft some bamboo posts for the mosquito net (one of which only collapsed once, so success?)... Eventually I got into my rhythm and introduced some intentionality with my time. 

I began every day by waking up in the pre-dawn darkness and recounting my dreams (I had SO many here) which I recorded in a small journal. I took a bottle of water and yoga mat up into the rocks, through a boulder chimney, up onto a flat rock overlooking the entire river valley in all directions. I sat in stillness as the colors of the sky started their show, the birds and plants and creatures all waking up harmoniously to the new day.

I eased into a yoga practice under the waxing moon and rising sun, enjoying the slight breeze and relative coolness of the morning. 

I usually followed this with my first mini-shower of the day (many were required to keep my body heat regulated).

I journaled or meditated or read before joining the guys for breakfast. We'd eat our fruit porridge and drink tea as we watched nature's critters and discussed topics of the world. I mainly listened, absorbing their knowledge and reflecting on how much there is to learn yet. Sometimes we would make a plan to go swimming or explore somewhere new, and I experienced a nice balance of activity and rest. My personal time was spent meditating, reading, journaling, exploring, swimming, making art/cairns, observing nature, and helping out where I could. And from all that, plenty of thinking, feeling, reflecting, learning, and inevitably growing. And coined a mantra for myself in emotional times, "don't think about it, feel about it," so that I can skip over the stories, get to the root of my feelings, and experience those instead.

Themes of my growth here revolve around authenticity and honesty, awareness and presence, loneliness and self-love. I got really vulnerable with myself, acknowledging that even though I was in a beautiful place that I'd chosen to be in for a week, I still nursed an underlying sadness that stemmed from missing the presence of love from others. Experiencing such visceral solitude gave that much more value to being in relationship with others. 

I've been curious as to where currently I stand on the introvert-extrovert scale since I feel it's changed over time. I had always considered myself an extrovert but in the last few years really gave honor to my introverted side. And this trip has been by far the most space I've ever held for my inner introvert. In this space, I experience myself in an incredibly authentic way. I go with my flow, I am creative, I am patient and conscious and still. 

And I also am lonely. I didn't realize how disconnected I really was allowing myself to be from others until being on Hampi Island, at a little slice of heaven called the Goan Corner. I first went for a dinner with Dave and Ulli before Dave went to catch a bus back to Auroville. I actually had my first beer in months for the fun of it with these guys, and enjoyed a delicious malai kofta as I scoped out the scene I'd be dropping into in a couple days.

 And it looked wonderful.. tables were bursting with happy, tan, chatty, young climberfolk. I noticed the subtle shift from introversion to extroversion beginning.

I returned to the island for my final full day and a half there and tried to really soak it all in. I came to accept my spiritual/introspective persona as just a child, and stopped pressuring myself to fell like it had to be an advanced complete entity... What I mean by this is instead of forcing the need to have a fully matured and disciplined spiritual identity, practice, and knowledge, I can have compassion for this relatively new and growing side of myself. I can guide it as I would a five-year-old, with patience and play and acknowledgment that things are going to get messy. But the messes will get cleaned up, and over time the child's personality will unfold naturally, with love. So now I have an excitement to see how I'll develop, what new horizons of the mind I'll discover, how continued self-reflection will guide me on the adventure of fulfilling my life's purpose. One baby step at a time.