Wednesday, April 5, 2017

[most of the following was written a month ago but I'm only getting around to finishing and posting it now... more to come!]

As suspected, my quick 3-day stop back in Auroville flew by... But I loved every second of it. Have you ever lived somewhere a while and then been able to show it to someone else for the first time? When I have these experiences I often find a new appreciation for the place, and this proved true as I shared Auroville with Kelsey. Arriving back to the International House was very special, filled with hugs and excitement, and also a sense of subtle change. Most of the guests were different from the last time I was there so I had some new faces to learn in addition to the old.

Kelsey and I went next door for a farm-fresh lunch thali then we relaxed in our shared room. We rented a moped to share which took us to Pondicherry the next day.

Kelsey was new to this area of India so it felt special to introduce her to the city which was my introduction to India! She was in her element snapping pictures along the promenade of the colorfully dressed women.
We went to the Sunday Market and I bought some gifts and spices before going to a late lunch with Kelsey and Sumit. We cruised back from there and I said bye to Pondy for a while... But it still wasn't really hitting me that I was leaving. I had to put all my focus on not crashing the moped with Kelsey on the back as I navigated the now familiar city streets.

That night we went with friends to the beach at dusk and watched the waves and the moon.

 After an hour or so we decided to go get some dinner, but right when we were walking up to our bikes I couldn't seem to find the key. I didn't panic but I was definitely worried that I had just dropped the only access to our poor rental moped in the sand. Somewhere. I searched my bag and Kelsey began to look around with her phone light, and somehow magically found it in the sand nearby half-buried 😳 WHOOPS that was a close one. But another crisis averted! Pizza dinner, then chai and games with the ever-growing International House crew, then a good night's rest.

I got up early to get ready for the farm and reunite with Pierre, Debu, and Nitin, my little farm family. 
It was so good to be back, I spent more time at this farm than anywhere else during my one at Auroville so it holds a very special place in my heart and it contributed daily to my growth. I loved seeing the subtle ways in which the operations and plants had shown growth since I had last been there. I had nothing but gratitude to spread to it all, and planted the final sprouts that I would here, wishing them a safe journey.

After breakfast, Nitin helped me package seeds from the farm for gifts and gardening back home, so a taste of Shambhala will grow back in the states as well! I went for one last chai with them before heading to the Matrimandir for one final visit.

I arrived after they had closed the door, but thankfully the kind people working there let me enter. I was instructed to slowly walk towards the door at the base of the globe to set off the sensor and it would slide open, and sure enough like out of some futuristic movie this massive gold curved door slowly slid underneath the opening as I walked the steps up to the entrance. I felt welcomed, and knew the Mother's grace allowed me to be there this day. I walked the ramps up to the meditation chamber alone, and entered with a pounding heart and gratitude to return to this special place.

The following day was my last day at the school was filled with play and laughs and hugs and lots of little hands waving goodbye. I'll never forgot those sweet little faces and mischievous personalities.

 The teachers and I were tearing up as we parted ways, likely to never see each other again but still filled with a deep sense of connection and care for one another. 

The hardest goodbyes happened that evening back at the International House.  The sweet family who ran the place had been like my extended family throughout my stay. The daughter asked if we could bake some cookies together on their small wood stove, so that's how we spent our last evening together. Sumit and Kelsey were there to help as well, and I stress-ate cookie dough as I kept checking the gate for my (late) taxi to Chennai. 

When it finally pulled up, I scooped up my bags and gave my final hugs and met my eleven-fingered taxi driver. He showed me the extra pinky finger on his left hand and told me how it meant he was lucky/blessed/etc. He picked up an older French musician and drove the two of us to the Chennai airport, where we split the fare and parted ways. It was really happening. I smoothly navigated my way through the familiar airport, wondering when I'd be here again. I switched into travel mode and mentally prepared for the three flights ahead of me, taking me only to familiar places now. 
• • •
If you're reading this, thanks for sticking with me. I have now spent over a month back in the states and this post was long overdue. But the real overdue one is still in the works... I hope to write more of an update and reflection on the trip as a whole, now that I'm back in the land of drinking tap water and breathing cool air. Stay tuned :) 







Monday, April 3, 2017

There's something I really love about train travel in India. I find it to be my favorite form of transportation while I'm here, and a quintessential India experience. It's direct, no need to deal with winding roads or traffic, requires very little effort, a lot of beautiful scenery, and it's cheapcheap. It's amazing how popular train travel is in India compared to the west... it inspires me to seek out this transportation more in my life because it honors both the journey and the destination.

I arrived at the Canacona train station around noon and decided to walk the nearly 3km to Patnem Beach, which turned into a combo of me walking and hitching two motorbikes to cut down on the distance. I found myself on the beautiful Goan beach and walked along looking for Kelsey. After only a couple minutes I saw her and called out and then I was having my next beautiful beach reunion!

More than anyone in my life, I have the most similar overlap of locations lived/visited as Kelsey Hayden. We're both from Colorado, about an hour apart from one another. We both went to college at the U of O. Both traveled through SE Asia after college, in fact her trip really inspired and helped me to take on my trip that following year. It was almost no surprise when we discovered we'd be in India at the same time! 

Kelsey was finishing up a challenging and meaningful month at a yoga teacher training course in southern Goa. When I arrived all she had left to do was attend her final ceremony that evening, so after some lunch with a couple of her friends at Patnem, we went back so they could get ready. I felt so blessed to get to stay with her in her lovely cottage and also to witness their heart-touching ceremony.

(Easily the nicest accommodation I'd had in a while!)

It was so sweet catching up with Kelsey. To hear all about her journey thus far and to see my own experiences of overcoming hardships reflected back... Traveling India is no easy feat and to share that experience with someone who I've shared so many other experiences with gave me a sense of recognition and home.

The next morning I woke up naturally early and decided to do some yoga in the shala. Some of the other new teachers trickled in and invited me to join them in a big 108 sun salutations practice. 108 is a sacred number and completing this many sun salutations (cycles of about 5 yoga positions) brings a powerful and spiritual energy to a space. So I went for it! We all flowed together through cycles of 10, pushing through pain and sweat and doubt to one of the most memorable and profound hours of yoga of my life. Those final 8 rounds felt so satisfying, and led me to the best savansana rest I can ever remember. Not a bad way to start the day!

After packing and breakfast, Kelsey and I moved down to Agonda Beach for the day. We split a room near some other folks from her course then we all had relaxing beach time together!
Soaking up the sun before heading back to rainy Portland! We had a very chill day filled with good food and great conversations. 
Horseback rider and cricket games on Agonda beach...

That evening we bought some fruit for the morning and booked a cab to the airport. We had a 7am flight from Goa to Chennai, meaning we had to leave the guesthouse around 4am. Despite the very early wake up, the day went smoothly and we arrived into that familiar Chennai airport. It was my first time out of many arriving here domestically and I was surprised how comfortable it all was to me... And smaller somehow. I think I've been growing.

I ran into a wonderful woman who I'd previously met in Auroville and she was returning there from Goa as well. She shared a taxi with Kelsey and I down the coast and we had lovely talks about our experiences. Getting closer to Auroville felt a bit surreal. It was a homecoming, a return to the source, and the final resting stop of all the places my soul had been over the past three months. Auroville welcomed us with that familiar warmth (figurately and literally) and it felt so good to be "home" one last time before going "home" ❤️❤️